The wave of sport riding is exciting, enjoyable and at the same time challenging. Riding on the waves of the sea and uniting with the power of nature is an experience that frees your mind from the outside world. Surfing, on the other hand, is the best exercise for hoping and trying to overcome external problems.
These are the answers to the question of many professional surfers in the world: “Why surfing?”
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History of surfing
Although surfing has been around in the world for about 200 years, it is probably a thousand years old. Indigenous peoples of Hawaii, Fiji, and Tahiti did similar surfing. They went to sea with the help of fishing boats and returned to shore by gliding on the waves. These places are still very popular destinations for surfers today.
You only need two things to ride a wave. Fragile waves, surfboards, and of course a little courage. Sometimes it is possible to surf even without a board, this method is called Bodysurfing. We will talk about the types of surfing below.
Surfing style
Do not rush The practice of surfing in practice is not as simple as it seems. The surfer must get to a point in the water where the waves begin to break near the shore. This point is called the Surf Line. Now the surfer may reach this range by paddling on the board or be pulled to that point by a device such as a jet ski. Once it reaches this point, it waits on the board and carefully monitors the waves that are forming. Experienced surfers evaluate each wave from several angles. A good wave is one that is strong enough to ride, and also not dangerous enough to throw when it breaks. In other words, the surfer must be able to ride in and out of the wave before approaching the beach or cliffs.
Step after wave detection
Once the surfer has identified the right wave, it quickly reaches its climax. As soon as the wave starts to break, it jumps from the abdomen to the legs and is bent over the board. Here the difference between professional and beginner surfers can be seen. Only professionals with a lot of practice can stay on the board. Surfing, they ride on the wave towards the shore, until the wave loses its power. At this point, he can get out of the wave by changing the direction of his board and turning it towards the sea, or simply by sleeping on the board again and paddling. Of course, this happens if the power of the wave does not upset its balance in the middle of the path and reaches the end point of the wave. In any case, after exiting or falling in the wave, the movement towards the Surf Line is repeated.
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